Seduced

"It's unwise to pay too much, but is worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little - that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done!

If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run. And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better."

John Ruskin (1819-1900) – English art critic and writer...


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Don't Be Seduced

RESIDENTIAL CONSTRUCTION COSTS

The prices listed here are for rough estimating purposes only. They include all hard costs ("sticks & bricks"), landscaping and driveways, construction interest and closing costs, insurance, utilities, builder overhead and profit (15%). Prices do NOT include lot costs, architectural fees or real estate fees. These prices are for above average, custom home construction: nice trim, good cabinets, nine or ten foot high ceilings, tile baths, fireplaces, masonry exteriors. Prices are relevant for the suburban Atlanta Georgia metropolitan area. Add about 10% for close-in, high-demand neighborhoods. The prices listed here are based on new construction; add about 10% for additions to existing structures. All prices listed are "per square foot" (psf). This means that the number of square feet of floor space is multiplied by the psf price shown below to get the total costs of the area in question.

The most expensive areas of a house are those with the most plumbing, the finest finishes and the most  trim. Smaller rooms tend to have a higher per-square-foot cost than larger rooms. Kitchens will usually be the most expensive rooms in the house, followed by bathrooms. Bedrooms, living rooms and dining rooms will usually be less expensive. Of course, unheated areas like garages and storage rooms will cost much less and unfinished basement areas are the least costly of all.  


·         MAIN LEVEL: kitchen, library, dining room, master suite. This level includes the most expensive areas of the house, the kitchen and often the master bath........$120  to $200 psf

·         UPPER LEVEL: children's’ bedrooms and baths……................................$90 psf

·         FINISHED TERRACE LEVEL: home theatre, office, bath……..…............$85 psf

·         DRIVE UNDER GARAGE: .................................................................$45 psf

·         MAIN LEVEL GARAGE:……............................................................. $60 psf 

·         UNFINISHED BASEMENT .AREA……...............................................$30 to 85 psf

·         ABOVE GROUND SCREENED PORCH…….......................................$45 psf

·         GRADE LEVEL SCREEN PORCH UNDER WATERPROOF DECK…...$20 psf

·         WATERPROOFED MASONRY DECK……….......................................$30 psf

·         PRESSURE TREATED WOOD DECK………......................................…$20  to $40 psf

·     POURED BASEMENT AND FOOTINGS.................................................$35,000 +

For definition purposes, a terrace level is a basement with at least two sides on ground level (daylight basement). A drive-under garage is on the terrace level.

METHODS OF CALCULATING SQUARE FOOTAGE

·         Measurements are taken to the outside of the exterior wall surface: a brick house will have more overall square footage than a stucco house with the same stud wall configuration.

·         Interior rooms should be measured to the centerline of any common walls.

·         When figuring the area of double height foyers and other double height rooms or rooms with tall vaulted ceilings, increase the square footage by 50%.

REDUCING RESIDENTIAL CONSTRUCTION COSTS
If you are wealthy with an unlimited building budget, you may skip this section.
It's for the other 99.9% of us.

This section lists some methods of keeping construction costs low. They often conflict with what a client would prefer to have, but designing a new home is all about making choices; many of those choices involve money. It would be a mistake to let any of the suggestions listed below take on too much importance. Keep a proper balance between what you want and how much it is going to cost.

One very important point to remember is that there is no "silver bullet" for reducing the costs of new construction. There is no one decision that is going to save $10,000 (well, maybe the last one). A house is made up of thousands of parts involving 20 to 30 different construction trades. Controlling costs is not a easy task involving the saving of ten dollars here, forty dollars there and a hundred dollars over there. It requires lots of discipline.

·         Keep it rectangular. Maintain a simple roof line. The construction industry is accustomed to 90 degree angles.

·         Keep it smaller and more functional. Bigger is not always better. Remember that in a few years the kids will all be gone (hopefully), but that 6,000 square foot house will still be there; along with its property taxes and heating bills.

·         Stay away from highly advertised "decorator" items. You can buy a perfectly good dishwasher for under $400. It is easy to pay $1,500, but it won't get your dishes any cleaner. Cancel your subscription to Architectural Digest.

·         Spend your money on the things you see and use every day.

·         Have everything worked out before you break ground. If you want to see your budget blown to bits, start making changes after construction has begun.

·         Don't be a trail-blazer. Forget the idea of a steel framed house or one made out of light weight concrete. There are a lot of products that are more suited to making the manufacturer wealthy than to giving you a good house for the money. The generic stuff that has been around a long time is usually best.

·         Copy the "merchant" builders. Go to a new subdivision of moderately priced "spec" houses and see what materials and methods the builders are using. Take down the brand names of the materials he is using and copy the names of his subcontractors.

·         The guy who has been building 20 speculative houses a year for ten years knows how to get value for his dollar.

·         Make a list of "optional" items and how much they costs. This will be a great help in deciding which gives more value for a limited budget. Some examples of "optional" items: granite countertops, lawn sprinkler system, home theatre, upscale plumbing fixtures, brick siding, upscale cabinetry, upscale kitchen appliances, lighting fixtures.

·         Plan to add later those things that you can't afford today. One of the most overlooked techniques for controlling construction costs is building in phases. There are lots of things that you can build into a house that facilities it’s being added on to later. In addition to physically expanding the house at a later date, there are things that can be done to allow the addition of "appliance" type items at a later date. Prewire for a security system, central vacuum system, home theatre, automatic lawn sprinkler system, intercom and finish them out when you can better afford it.

·         NEVER, never, never enter into a "cost plus" contract. When that smooth talking son-of-a-gun starts telling you how much money you can save you if you will just let him build on a "cost-plus" basis, call me. I'll get you started on a 12 step program.

PARTING THOUGHT: DON'T BE SEDUCED. Pay attention to the prices listed at the beginning of this page. They can be reduced somewhat by taking the actions listed above. You will run into builders who will say that they can shave 25% or 30% off those prices. Don't believe them. Put your hand on your wallet.

 

 

 

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Last modified: January 10, 2008